The Best of Vietnam

2024 saw Vietnam tourism catapult into the limelight for Asian tourists. It was affordable, offered plenty of opportunity for picture taking and an irresistible shopping experience.

Fortunately, there exists another layer of Vietnam, hidden from the tourist circuit, accessible only if you are a quiet story-seeker and willing to go the extra mile (nautical or otherwise).

The slender S-shaped country, has a complex history ; with its neighbours and within its length.  The north and south, while united by a common history, have two distinct identities. (For one, the South swears by coffee, and the North loves its tea.) Ideology, sense of nationalism, outlook towards life, all turn a deeper shade of red the further you go up North.

There are two easy ways to plan your Vietnam itinerary starting either from the the south and making your way up, or reverse. You need at least two weeks, to see a little bit of everything, but if you’re short on time, you can skip some of the more remote places.  Self-driving is not an option, regardless of prior experience - you can either rent cars with drivers, or opt for buses. Major cities are well connected by flight.

HCMC – Saigon

The electrifying hub of Vietnam is a potpourri of various south-east Asian cultures – Khmer, Thai – and a sprinkling of French colonialism and American influence. Despite this, the city has a uniqueness that it wears on its sleeve.

You need atleast 3 days to experience Saigon. The best way to explore the city is by foot – make your way through the motor-bike carts selling fresh produce, the miniature chairs and tables set up on the footpath outside narrow food stalls, peep into alley ways that serve as community halls, trip over the occasional broken pavement or loose cable, all while admiring the grandeur of old merchant buildings, sparkling new complexes and luxury stores.

Must do stops in Saigon:

1. Sign up for free walking tours. They cover icons like the local theatre, Notre Dame, book and the historic post office – send postcards to anywhere

2. If you’re a coffee addict like me, pencil in breakfasts at the Café Apartment – a decrepit building bursting with eclectic coffee shops , each serving up delectable variations – Egg Coffee, Salt Coffee, Vietnamese Coffee with condensed milk, and the occasional not coffee (aka Tea)

3. Buy a poster from the Propaganda Bookstore, and chat up with the owner

4. Shop – Go label hunting in high-end luxury stores, or settle for knock-offs in the Ben Thanh Market

5. Relax and Unwind - Choose from a myriad affordable options for skin care, hair treatments and massages

   
   

   

   
   
   
   

Hoi An

This town was my favourite part of Vietnam. Stuck in a time capsule, Hoi An is rows and rows of yellow buildings, like the pages of an old book – both in colour and feel, crumbling, peeling, yet united in purpose. It is festooned with paper lanterns and springs to life with an ethereal magic come dusk. It is surreal to walk along the river, that occasionally floods the street during the rains, unsure, if your next step will meet concrete road , or send you straight into the cold plunging depths.

Take a guided walking tour to explore the Japanese influence in the town, through the temples and houses. Get tailor-made clothes and shoes at great prices (it is not CHEAP, just incredibly convenient and well-fitting). Don't forget to sample food from the stalls, rice cakes, steamed bananas, sticky rice grilled to perfection, and the variety of smoked meats.

Make sure to stop at a Banh-Mi place that Anthony Bourdain is reported to have fallen in love with- recognizable instantly by the smell of hot bread, and long lines snaking out the door, come rain or sun.

70% of all of Hoi An is in the service industry, so at some point you wonder what really is the purpose of the town, but the next turn into yet another alley, bedecked with paper lanterns washes away these unnecessary questions

Hanoi

The capital city of Vietnam is often just a pitstop on the way to the Ha Long Bay cruise for most people, but you should definitely spend atleast two days here. While life in Hanoi is more rooted in culture and history, in a viscous flow compared to its cosmopolitan cousin down south, the city is teaming with night markets, museums, storybook architecture, and plenty of spirit –Bia Hoi culture is unique to Hanoi – fresh beer, served on the road, sometimes right out of practical hose-pipes!

If you can brave the traffic, rent a bicycle to explore the lanes of the Old Quarter - excellent for street photography, shopping and food in the night market. Two of our favourite food finds here, were Met - a local chain with plenty of branches for the best Pho, Banh Mi Mama, and Maison Marou ( for banana muffins, Tiramisu and chocolate)

Hanoi is dotted with lakes, and I would recommend putting Ho Tay on your itinerary, to see Tran Quoc Pagoda - the oldest Buddhist Pagoda in Vietnam.

The highlight of Hanoi, is the Water Puppet Theatre. Book a VIP ticket to be treated to front row seats to an 11th century art form, depicting stories from Vietnamese rural life and culture accompanied by music. Pro Tip - the shows are usually in Vietnamese, you can rent a translator device before you go in

Halong Bay Cruises

No trip to Vietnam is complete without spending a night or two in a cruise in the bay. Since there are plenty of options, information and Insta-opinions on this, here's a quick list of how to choose a cruise

1. Pick a two day cruise over 1 day - trust us, one day is not enough time!

2. Go to Bai Tu Long Bay instead of Ha Long - fewer cruises operate on this route, so you'll have the views to yourselves

3. Use an aggregator site to compare costs, activities, read all reviews before making a choice

4. Carry appropriate clothing - for kayaking, swimming , and sun deck lounging :)

5. You are technically prohibited from bring in single use plastics and carrying your own alcohol on-board, but we did not experience any baggage checks.

Ninh Binh

2 hours south of Hanoi, is the quiet retreat town of Ninh Binh. Perfect for exploring the rural countryside of Vietnam, especially on bicycles – you will meet rivulets choking with lotus and water lilies, limestone hills, and stretches of green rice fields.

One of the high-lights is to go boating in Trang An on the Sao Khe river, winding river running through limestone karsts,  caves, and rice fields. There are three routes you can choose from - If you are claustrophobic, choose the one with fewer caves - while they are well lit, the low ceilings and winding paths that block out the sun can be difficult. We recommend going as early as possible, because otherwise your view will be impeded by scores of other boats and tourists.

Cao Bang

If you have more than a week to spend in Vietnam, head to the untamed north east of the country, to Cao Bang. A 7-hour drive, or over night bus from Hanoi, Cao Bang is un-polluted, everyday-life Vietnam. Rugged terrain, pristine lakes and sharp mountains and patches of cultivation - grains, vegetables , herbs and fruit.

We rented bikes, and ventured into the countryside, there are caves , short hiking opportunities and plenty of unscripted exploring. A short bike ride from the city is the Angel Eye Mountain, that depending on the time of the year is either a carpet of barren land or inundated in small pools.

But its not all wild, wild, outdoors. Cao Bang has plenty of restaurants and activity.

We spent new years eve here, and to our surprise, walked into a fabulous street party, strung across from river to road, complete with local TV stars, thumping music, and plenty of dancing.

The star of the show in Cao Bang is the Ban-Gioc waterfall, spanning across the border with China. It’s a two hour drive from the city , and a two-step process. First, climb up to the Phật Tích Trúc Lâm Bản Giốc Pagoda where you can get a stunning birds-eye view of the town, and the distant roar of the waters of Ban Gioc. Then, you can drive up to the waterfall, where you can take bamboo rafts to ride up to the plunge pool. Since the waterfall is now 'shared' with China, you will also see Chinese rafts in the pool.

The districts across the length of Vietnam may vary greatly in their food, spending habits, and size of Uncle Ho statues, but each part of the country is a little jewel by itself. If you have more time, consider biking through the Ha Giang loop.  If you are short on time, consider Hanoi, Hoi An and a short Bai Tu Long Bay cruise, and go back again for a longer visit for every thing else you missed!