Morocco is a land of contrast, lush green fields bursting with bright oranges versus vast arid sandy plains, vibrant souks teaming with crowds versus empty beaches, opulent, bedecked palaces versus little children with sweaters held up by safety pins.
It is a potpourri of French, Spanish and African influences, lending a very unique quality to its food, culture and people.
Our road trip covered the best of Morocco , in a two week trip, scroll to the bottom of the page for the route.
Morocco Top of Mind!
Avoid renting cars in big cities like Fes, Marrakesh – most places of interest are in special car-free zones. When you rent, stick to well-known brands like Avis, Hertz. Local providers appear cheaper, but they can be very unreliable and you will end up wasting A LOT time, effort and money.
The big cities are well connected by a reliable rail network. We used RailNinja for bookings.
Be very wary of traffic rules and signages (some are entirely in Arabic) Traffic police are everywhere, even on obscure roads outside cities, and quick to impose steep fines on unsuspecting tourists.
Most restaurants do not serve alcohol, but you can buy liquor in big supermarkets like Carrefour.
Stay in riads instead of regular hotels where possible – Riads are charming traditional Moroccan houses centered around a courtyard.
Casablanca
Casablanca shot to fame thanks to the movie, absolutely none of which was actually shot in the city.
Today, the bustling metropolis that started as a Berber port in the 7th century, is Morocco’s financial capital. The city is well connected internationally, and it is often cheaper to fly into, compared to Marrakech. You can spend 1 day here. Some highlights are – The exquisite Hassan II Mosque - Part of the mosque extends into the Atlantic Ocean, making sunsets at the corniche edging the coast absolutely magical, The Sacre Coeur Cathedral and the Arab League Park. You can skip the medina if you plan to visit Fes or Marrakech.
Tangier
The beach town on the Strait of Gibraltar has a quintessential European vibe. Keep in mind that getting around in Tangier is not very easy - decide if you want to unwind by the sea in a secluded beach villa or soak in Tangier’s literary and artistic heritage and live right in the middle of town.
The seafood is a must try, especially sardines- fried, grilled or baked with Chermoula spices.
Fes
Fes has always had a special place in my heart because Rory Gilmore was endlessly fascinated by it, and when I stepped into the bejeweled gates of the heart of the city, I could see why.
A symbol of historic and cultural significance, Fes was established by the Idrisid dynasty in the 8th century, and grew to become a center for trade, learning and architectural prowess. If you’ve never seen a medina before, Old Fes will overwhelm you with very quickly. You will either love it or hate it, with equal intensity. Constricting alleys are arranged in a never-ending maze. There is a certain charm, despite the bones, beaks and hooves (unattached to their dear departed owners) littering the roads. Mornings in Fes start with proprietors washing their store fronts, causing little streams of water to race down the streets in a hurry, towards the heart of the bowl-shaped Medina.
Food, spices, clothes, perfumes, leather goods, household articles – the Medina sells it all. Remember to unabashedly bargain, not only is it expected, but it is also encouraged!
Fes is best explored on foot, some landmarks to include in your walking tour of the Medina, are-
Tanneries , especially Chouara, one of the oldest Tanneries in the world. The roof of shops no 10, and no 64 provide a good vantage point to see the entire process, right from treating raw leather in pigeon poop, to dyeing it in rich, deep colours.
Madarsas – The two oldest and most intricately designed Madarsas are Bou Inania, and Al-Attarine. There is an entry fee to step into the complex, but it is completely worth it.
Famous Gates – First , Bab bou Jeloud or the blue gate that stands as a sentinel to the walled Old city of Fes. The blue tilework on the outside, is representative of the city, and the green on the inner side of the gate for Islam. Second, the set of five doors of the opulent Royal palace, adorned with Zelig (mosaic tilework), carved cedar wood, and gilded metalwork. The gates are all you can see of the palace, since it is currently in use by the royal family, and entry is prohibited.
Cafes and Restaurants- Fes has fallen prey to Instagramization and there a lot of “Instagramable” cafes. I would suggest shunning them and making a bee line for places with good, honest food, like Café Clock
If you have had your fill of the 9000 odd alleys of Old Fes, you can visit Borj Nord or the Merenid Tombs for fantastic sun-drenched views of the city especially at dusk
Chefchouen
Nestled in the heart of the Rif Mountains, Chefchouen’s blue-washed walls are iconic. The town is undoubtedly centered around tourists, you will see a lot of “sets” – done up alleys and nooks designed only to take pictures. Ignore them all, and walk around without Maps. Get lost in the tiny picturesque lanes, with a tall glass of pomegranate or orange juice for company. Stop at the hole-in-the-wall bakeries to sample fresh bread and cookies. All roads in Chefchouen eventually lead to the main square -Place Outa El Hammam, that is stacked with shops, art galleries and cafes. A smaller and less crowded square is the Place El Houta, that features a small water fountain.
A trek to the Spanish Mosque is a good idea for an evening in Chefchouen. The path is well-marked and relatively easy, and cuts across the town and Ras el Maa, a small waterfall making for a very enjoyable climb to a very rewarding panorama of the city.
Sahara
The Sahara desert spans across the southeastern part of Morocco, continuing into Algeria and beyond. At the northernmost tip of the desert, is a small town called Merzouga - the perfect gateway to desert camping. If you love beaches and their claustrophobia-diminishing-endlessness, a desert can have a similar calming effect.
You can book any of the luxury desert camps in the region, make sure to book one with fewer tents, so you can experience an undistilled version of the desert. I would recommend a minimum of two nights, and if you’re worried about roughing it out – rest assured. The tents are generously equipped with running water, cozy beds, electricity, and WiFi.
It is magical to wake up to a vista of silken mountains of sand. Desert sand is a slippery creature, fiercely loyal to the sun – HOT where the sun shines, and ice-cold in the thinnest of shadows. Take a morning walk through freshly windswept terrain, unscarred by footprints. Look closely and you will spot the occasional imprint of crooked beetles, like the tread on a narrow bicycle.
Spend your day sun-bathing or in activities like quad-biking and dune bashing. Avoid desert camping in the hot months, between May and September.
Marrakech
The Red City boasts of a history centuries strong, through Roman, Moorish, Idrissid, Almoravid & Merinid dynasties, down to the Franco-Spanish Protectorates, that have held it as their cultural / political capitals. Today the city is squatly in the middle of the tourist circuit, you can expect a slightly synthesized, processed version of Morocco up on display.
The Medina in Marrakech is very different from the those of Fes, the latter is more gritty and raw. The highlight of the Medina though, is not the scores of shops selling twinkling brass lanterns, or colourful leather shoes heaped like a little pile of M&Ms, but the Jemaa el-Fnaa square. The sprawling square is the beating heart of the medina and can hold tens of thousands of people. Lined with shops, cafes the square has a different personality at night. The orange juice stalls and PG-13 vendors are replaced by Chleuh dance boys, fortune tellers and magicians.
Here's are some must-dos when in Marrakech
El Badi Palace: Once a magnificent palace of Sultan Ahmad al-Mansur in the 16th century, El Badi now stands as an evocative ruin. Visitors can explore its vast courtyards, sunken gardens, and remnants of grandeur. This one is less touristy and offers plenty of space for photography.
Bahia Palace: This 19th century palace has been beautifully preserved, with majestic courtyards, rooms and gardens displaying the traditional mosaic work. The palace walls are adorned with finely detailed stucco work, featuring floral motifs calligraphy. The pathways are lined with orange and , jasmine trees. It is no surprise that Bahia palace is also extremely crowded throughout the day, and that can be a damper.
Bacha Coffee- If you'd prefer to avoid to crowds in Bahia Palace, head to the Dar El Bacha Museum. Once the residence of the Pasha of Marakkesh, the beautiful royal premises, complete with orange trees in ornate courtyards now has the famous Bacha Coffee. You can expect crowds especially early in the day, but it is worth a visit
Berber Museum, Majorelle Garden and YSL Museum - these iconic sets in the heart of the city are a good learning experience, although a slightly curated version, on the country's history. MUST buy tickets in advance, to visit these well in advance. I would recommend giving the Secret Garden a miss.
Morocco is a tourist friendly country that’s easy to navigate and famous for the warm Berber hospitality. You will need at least 2 weeks to do it justice. Here’s the route we followed.
