Kyrgyz Capers - A Road trip through Kyrgyzstan

In all my travels in all these years, I’ve always had varying answers for the question “what is the most unique destination you’ve visited”, but after 2025 summer, that answer is now resolutely Kyrgyzstan.

Think sprawling, velvety carpets of green covered hills as far as the eye can see, snowcapped mountains in the horizon, a pack of wild horses racing alongside your car, a rainbow or two twinkling behind you, and no other human in sight for miles on end.

If unicorns existed, they would call Kyrgyzstan home

As of 2025, Kyrgyzstan has embraced tourism as a source of revenue, and you will see signs of this in the form of rapid construction of resorts and hotels around the most iconic landmarks, and major roadworks. While this will make travel in the country more accessible, it also takes it one step closer to commercialized tourism rather than off-beat travel.

A 7-day itinerary is ideal to explore the country. Factor in a few additional days if you want to go trekking in the stunning Tian Shan mountains – there are plenty of options based on level of difficulty and comfort.

Bishkek

The capital of Kyrgystan is a laid-back city, with wide, tree-lined avenues, and soviet style public buildings. Lush parks sit squarely in the middle of busy areas, flocked by groups of joggers, pet parents armed with puppies, and readers parked under trees. On a quiet Sunday morning, you will see strangers compete at chess on the public chessboard adorned-tables.

Bishkek has its fair share of specialty cafes, malls and co-working spaces. Plan one day here to acclimatize yourself with local culture before stepping into the less urbanized parts of Kyrgyzstan. Spend the evening in Oak Park and Panfilov Park. As the sun sets, make your way to Ala-Too square – a large public space with dramatic fountains. During holiday seasons this square hosts open concerts and folk shows. This part of town has some excellent restaurants, we particularly loved Baira Café, and Ants.

Issyk Kul

Issyk Kul is a 5-hour drive from Bishkek. The route as of 2025, is not the best, a lot of stretches are dirt roads or in the process of being concreted. We made a pitstop at Burana Tower, a minaret dating back to the 10^th-12^th century. In hindsight this was entirely skippable; we would recommend driving straight through to your destination.

Issyk Kul is a stunning alpine lake and one of Kyrgyzstan’s most popular (but worth the hype) destinations.  The lake is so big, that it spans across multiple small towns. The north and south sides of the lake offer two distinct flavours. The north is commercialized with large hotel chains, offering water sports and a full resort experience. The south offers a more authentic experience - think small boutique cottages and container-style rooms, right by the edge of the water.

The south was a natural choice for us and we stayed in the town of Tosor. Spend two nights in Issyk Kul. There are no checklists or activities to chase, and the only thing on your agenda should be to empty your mind and unwind. Sit by the iridescent blue green waters of the lake, so clean and clear that you can see the lake bed packed with sparkling pebbles. Enjoy simple home cooked meals. Play with the resident dogs – most stays have a few for security.

On a clear sunny day, as you are leaving Issyk Kul, make a stop at Fairy Tale canyon. This otherworldly landscape, is a red sandstone canyon, wind-whipped into several imaginative shapes, which gives it its name. It is a short free-roam walk through the sandy/rocky slopes. On a rainy gloomy day though, the experience can be less than spectacular.

Karakol

Next stop - further east - beyond Issyk Kul, was the base camp town of Karakol.  

One of the highlights of Kyrgystan, is hiking into the majestic sprawl of mountain ranges within the Tian Shan : Terskey Ala-Too, Kungey Ala-Too, At-Bashy and the Fergana ranges. Of these, the Terskey Ala-Too range hosts more accessible and D-I-Y trails, speckled with gorgeous mountain scenery and alpine lakes. Karakol is the gateway to these treks.

This makes Karakol a busy town. Stores selling camping and hiking gear,  a restaurant row with wonderful dining options. We tried them all in succession, and loved Altyn Kumara the most. Hallmark dishes you should get your hands on are Lagman -pulled soupy noodles, Manti, the steamed dumplings filled with lamb and onion, or pumpkin, Shashlik platters (skewered meats), fried and sauced eggplant. Order bread sets to try Boorsok, small, airy pillows of fried dough, flaky pastry called Kattama and Chak-Chak for dessert.

Karakol also has a fascinating historic and cultural side. Founded as a Russian military outpost, Karakol was influenced by its Dungan residents – Muslims of Chinese origin who arrived in Kyrgyzstan in the 1800s. You can take a walk around old town. Visit Ethnomir, for some cottage industry products (I picked up a paper-leather bag from a brand called Jandan has since become my go-to) Local superstar produce like Sea buckthorn, Honey products are available in Issyk Kul Brand Souvenir Store.

Two landmarks in Karakol you should definitely see are the The Holy Trinity Cathedral and the Dungan church.

We recommend staying in Madanur during your stay in Karakol - small functional rooms, working space, ample parking- perfect for using as a base if you will spend most of your time trekking.

We did the Altyn Arashan trek, which is a 2-day affair. The starting point of the trek is a 20 minute drive from the town center - you can park at the base camp. You can also take a minibus from the town right up the start point. The path is mostly flat, cutting through a lush valley and offering up stunning views of snow-capped mountains, streams and wild flowers along the way. The trail can vary from 15 to 18 km, depending on which yurt camp you've picked - make sure to factor in location before booking!

The return loop is the same. Instead of walking you can also do the entire trail on a 4x4. Fair warning - its NOT comfortable, and best avoided if you have spine or back problems.

Song Kul

Retracing our route from Karakol back through Issyk Kul, for our last stop in Kyrgyzstan we drove out to the desolate north-west of the country.

Until the 20^th century, Kyrgyzstan was primarily a nomadic society. This changed rapidly after the introduction of settlements under soviet influence, estimates peg only about 10% of the current population as nomadic. This part of the country around Song Kul however, is where faint imprints of this nomadic lifestyle still exist. A small number of families make their seasonal homes in the vast valleys. Driving through the excellent roads, you will pass an occasional yurt, and large herds of livestock roaming freely. Nothing or no one else to disturb the majestic mountain tranquility, not even pesky omnipresent mobile networks.

Google Maps estimates tend to be very off, so factor in additional time to and from your camp. Accommodation around the Song Kul Lake is only in the form of yurt camps, which means large private sleeping quarters, and common showers and bathrooms. There are no petrol stations around the lake, but there are yurts that sell cans of fuel, that can sustain you till you’re back on the highway.

Most camps offer activities like horse riding, or vulture watching, but you’re best off taking walks by the lake shore, or driving through the valley, meeting inquisitive cows and sheep, and stopping for a nap on a bed of grass. We spent two magical days in Song Kul, on the first day, a fiery sunset and an army of rainbows kept us company, and followed by a majestic hailstorm. The second day, was stunningly clear alpine blue skies, with a slight nip in the air.

Know before you go

Kyrgyzstan is one of those rare places in 2026, that remains less explored and yet easily accessible from India, and doable on a budget. If I’ve convinced you to plan your next holiday, keep this in mind:

1.      You will need to rent a car – either self-drive or with a driver to see Kyrgyzstan. Public transport between cities, especially to remote parts is almost non-existent

2.      Vegetarian food isn’t available in all towns, if you have dietary restrictions, its best to carry your own food.

3.      Research the trek routes – the mountains and valleys are not commercialized and many treks require guides so that you can follow the right path.

4.      All throughout your visit especially in summer, keep an eye out for road side stalls and supermarkets selling some Kyrgyz signature drinks – a range of fermented drinks made from milk, mare’s milk and cereal.